Condrieu 2015 93 points
$42 | 170 cases imported | White
Features an unctuous backdrop to the peach, bitter almond and anise flavors, but remains energetic and bright overall, with honeysuckle and mirabelle plum notes providing lift throughout. Drink now through 2019.—J.M.
St.-Péray 2015 91 points
$24 | 150 cases imported | White
Quite ripe, with enticing creamed melon, peach and persimmon flavors gliding along, carried by a buttery note. Shows a hint of bitter almond at the end. Drink now.—J.M.
Condrieu l’Octroi 2012 93 points
$83 | 30 cases imported | white
On the tropical side, offering papaya, melon and mango notes. This late-release is still fresh, with honeysuckle, star fruit and orange blossom details filling in on the lively finish. Drink now through 2019.—J.M.
2013 Cote Rotie
I thought all three of the Côte Rôtie barrel samples were outstanding. Leading off, the classic 2013 Côte Rôtie incorporates a full 10% Viognier, and it shows, with lots of peach, violets and spring flower-like qualities blending nicely with sweet Syrah driven fruit. Medium-bodied, upfront and ready to go, it’s no light weight and has enough concentration to evolve nicely through 2023.
Based out of the northern part of Saint Joseph, Pierre Gaillard fashions classic, fresh and traditionally styled reds from all of the Northern Rhône appellations.
Condrieu DePoncins 2014 94 points
$78 | 10 cases imported | White
Ripe, showing drive to the nectarine, apricot and peach flavors, with well-embedded racy acidity and a bright quinine edge adding range and lift through the finish. Drink now through 2019. From France.—J.M.
Condrieu Le Grand Vallon 2014 93 points
$70 | 50 cases imported | White
A bold style, with singed hazelnut and a touch of piecrust framing and infusing the core of creamed peach, melon and apricot flavors. Drink now through 2018.—J.M.
Condrieu Les Terrasses du Palat 2014 92 points
$65 | 15 cases imported | White
This sports a plump core of nectarine, apricot and glazed peach flavors, but stays lively, with a bright floral thread and finely beaded acidity. Drink now through 2018.—J.M.
Côte-Rôtie Le Gallet Blanc 2013 92 points
$65 | 42 cases imported | Red
Energetic, with brambly tannins and lots of olive and bay accents bouncing through the core of bitter plum and dark cherry fruit. Well done for the vintage. Best from 2017 through 2021.—J.M.
Cornas Jouvet 2013 91 points
$60 | 100 cases imported | Red
A chalky spine drives the core of plum skin, blackberry coulis and bitter cherry notes, picking up bay and olive accents. This is built on austerity and cut. Best from 2018 through 2022.—J.M.
St.-Péray Version 2014 91 points
$31 | 100 cases imported | white
The nectarine, tangerine and white peach flavors have weight, but stay bright and floral-edged through the juicy finish. Drink now through 2017.—J.M.
Viognier Vin de France Les Contours de Deponcins 2014 90 points
$30 | 695 cases imported | white
Enticing, with pastis-soaked peach and apricot aromas and flavors flowing forth, while a tangy twinge of green almond acts as a counterweight through the finish. Drink now through 2017.—J.M.
Cornas Jouvet 2015 94 points
| $47 | 50 cases imported | Red This flaunts ripeness, featuring overt raspberry pâte de fruit, cassis and cherry compote notes, yet stays racy, with riveting acidity and a very refined chalky spine, adding violet, black tea and anise details through the finish. Offers a long echo of bay leaf. A beauty. Best from 2020 through 2035.—J.M.
Domaine des Nugues
Domaine des Nugues Fleurie 2015 90 Points
Aug 2016Neal Martin90Drink: 2017 - 2026
The 2015 Fleurie was mainly matured in concrete tanks save for half a dozen or so barrels in order to maintain the acidity. The bouquet is very attractive with black cherries, blueberry and violet scents that are detailed and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy black and red fruit, a little gritty in the mouth thanks to the chalky tannins. It feels quite dense with a structured finish. For some reason it reminded me of a wine that Christophe Perrot-Minot would make if the Morey-Saint-Denis grower branched out into Beaujolais!
Gilles Gelin was on hand at his domaine to escort me through his recent releases from the 2014 and recently bottled 2015 vintage. I asked him for his opinion on the latter, to which he replied: “It has the richness of 2009 but with better acidity. It was so rich and tannic that I had to use a separate press.” He also told me that he destemmed a little more of the fruit in 2014 compared to 2015. As usual, this was a consistent set of wines from both vintages, with barely a dropped catch. I particularly appreciated his Beaujolais Rosé, which Gilles vinifies like a white because he aims for ripeness on the nose.